Friday, 30 September 2011

Feature Radiators celebrates Central Heating Day!!



“Central Heating Day” is on 1st October each year, and it’s the official day when most folk in the UK switch on their central heating. Every year Feature Radiators marks the day with a party for their team and customers at their West Yorkshire showroom.

This year Feature Radiators are giving away a pair of Elegance thermostatic valves or Minimus manual valves with every radiator ordered on 1st October 2011.*



“Central heating has come on leaps and bounds in the last decade." commented Helena Gerwitz, General Manager at Feature Radiators. “We celebrate Central Heating Day in recognition of the vital role of heating and the advances made.”


Wendy Middleton of Age Concern commented “We know only too well that for old people, protection against the cold is vital and that freezing temperatures pose a serious threat to health. We are urging friends, neighbours and families to help older people to check their systems now, and also get any problems fixed before winter arrives”.


Source:
http://www.ledburyreporter.co.uk/news/local/8402655.Heating_advice_from_Age_Concern/
There have been impressive developments in central heating in the last decade, relating to aesthetics as well as function, and that’s reason to celebrate. With the boom in the home improvement market, consumers demanded better heating products. Feature Radiators were quick to respond with a comprehensive range of stylish, efficient, well-designed radiators and accessories. The Yorkshire based company offer an impressive range of products made from a wide range of materials including handsome valves with thermostatic controls. As well as the traditional heating systems that are powered by gas or oil, there is now some innovative radiator systems powered by electricity (a potentially sustainable fuel). Feature Radiators also offers an exclusive range of electric radiators, namely iRads, which can be invisibly linked together to provide a central controlled heating system in their own right.

To join in the celebrations and mark the day or just to take advantage of the free valves, visit Feature Radiators at their showroom at The Old Post Office, 134-140 Main Street, Bingley, West Yorkshire. BD16 2HL, see the website at http://www.featureradiators.co.uk or phone on 01274 567789.

For more information on Central Heating Day, contact Helena at Feature Radiators on 01274 515734, tweet @featureradiator or email Helena@featureradiators.co.uk


*Customers ordering on this day will be entitled to one free pair of valves with every radiator ordered on Saturday 1st October 2011. Valves included in this offer are the Elegance thermostatic valves in white and chrome or all chrome finishes and the Minimus manual valves in chrome or satin finishes. This promotion is not redeemable for cash or credit and cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. Feature Radiators reserves the right to withdraw this promotion at any time.

Monday, 19 September 2011

Which radiators are most efficient?


The question “which central heating radiators are most efficient?” is not straight forward, as in this context the word “efficient” means different things to different customers.

An official definition of the word “efficient” is:

“Acting or producing effectively with a minimum of waste, expense, or unnecessary effort.”

http://www.thefreedictionary.com/efficient

It can be argued that all central heating radiators are equally efficient insofar as the energy put into a radiator will equal the amount of heat it gives out. In other words, all properly functioning radiators with same heat output capacity, will give out the same amount of heat as one another and will use the same amount of energy to do so.

Radiators are just vessels designed to release energy in the form of heat. The amount of heat they release will depend on the amount of energy put into them.

In asking “Which central heating radiators are the most efficient?”, customers could mean:

1. Which radiator gives out the most heat for its size?
2. Which radiator is the cheapest to run?
3. Which radiator wastes the least fuel?
4. Which radiator heats up the quickest?

Relevant factors to consider in answering the above questions and ensuring you get the right radiator(s) for your specific needs are considered below.

Size and surface area

Its surface area determines the maximum heat output capacity of a radiator. The larger the surface area, the higher the potential heat output.

Surface area will be greatly increased by convectors, fins, or double or triple panels. So for example, the heat output capacity of a flat single panel radiator will be considerably less than a radiator of the same size (height x width) with double panels, and/or convectors or fins.

When considering one model of radiator, then generally, the bigger the radiator, the bigger the heat output. However this is not necessarily the case when comparing one model of radiator against another.

Water content

In theory, the less water a radiator holds, the less time it takes to heat up, and the less fuel is would require to reach full temperature. Consequently, the lower the water content of a radiator, the more “efficient” it could be considered to be. However, in reality, there is little difference in the level of water content across radiator models, although over an entire system the slight variation would multiply.

Design
The shape of a radiator and its design does have an effect on the amount of heat it radiates, but again this is due to the particular surface area of the model. For example, a tubular radiator with hollow tubes offers a lot more surface area than a flat panel design without fins as the heat can be emitted from both the outside and the inside of the tubes. So the design of a radiator does have a direct effect on its maximum heat output.

Material
A radiator’s material of manufacture does not have a direct impact on the amount of heat it gives out. However, the material will be a determining factor in the speed in which the radiator heats up and cools down. For instance, aluminium heats up quickly and cools down quickly, whereas cast iron heats up at a slower rate and cools down at a slower rate.

Finish

Science proves that the finish of a radiator affects its heat output in varying degrees.

There is a principal known as “emissivity” that enables experts to measure the ability for heat to leave (or radiate from) the surface of an object.

Levels of emissivity vary between finishes of radiators. Painted radiators have a higher level of emissivity than bare metal radiators, meaning that painted finishes absorb and release heat more than bare metal finishes. Matt finishes have a higher level of emissivity than gloss radiators. Even the colour of the finish can affect the level of emissivity. For instance, black paint has a higher level of emissivity than white paint. However, the difference in the emissivity of radiators is negligible and would only be realised in laboratory conditions.

Only a chrome finish has a noticeable affect on the heat output of a radiator as chrome has a very low level of emissivity. The chrome coating works on the same principal as the space blankets (the silver insulation blankets) used to keep athletes warm. The chrome coating, whilst looking beautiful, does reduce the ability of the radiator to radiate heat. Chrome (chromium plated) radiators are proven to emit approximately 20% less heat than the equivalent sized radiators in a painted finish.

In theory, the optimum radiator when looking for high heat output and rapid heat up time, taking all factors into account (no matter how minimal their impact) would be a matt black aluminium radiator with the greatest surface area for its size.

In practice, there are many other aspects that will determine the best radiator(s) for your project, including, aesthetics, dimensions to fit your space, budget and availability. Your choice will be governed by which factors take priority.

For more advice on choosing the right radiator(s) speak to a radiator specialist such as Feature Radiators. Contact their expert team directly on 01274 567789, meet them at their large West Yorkshire showroom, where they have over 250 radiators on display or visit their website http://www.featureradiators.co.uk/.

Helena Gerwitz, EzineArticles Basic PLUS Author

Friday, 26 August 2011

Positioning of radiators



When revamping your heating system you may feel restricted by the current position of pipework. However, with radiator technology coming on leaps and bounds over recent years and the ever improving insulation of properties, you no longer need to feel restricted by the standard conventions for radiator installation.


Radiators were historically always situated in the coldest part of a room, often against an outside wall or under a window, where the cold air drops to the floor. This meant that radiators were traditionally always around 600mm or 2ft high.


There was logic behind this standard at the time. Older properties that were poorly insulated with single glazing were prone to draughts; if a radiator was positioned on a wall opposite the window, this would cause cold air to be drawn across the floor due to the convection process. So a radiator was put under the window to help eliminate the cold draught problem.


Nowadays, though, most properties are far better insulated and double-glazing is rapidly becoming the norm. Alongside this, radiators are now available in a wealth of shapes and sizes and are definitely no longer the “normal” corrugated panels that we have become accustomed to. This means that you can now choose a radiator in the size and shape that you want, and position them, to best suit your room design.


With so many different radiator options now available, there are likely to be several possible places where you could put your radiators. So consider the following points when deciding on a setting for your radiators:


· Try and make the best use of space where possible and don’t be restricted by the positioning of current pipework. A new radiator in a new position might free up valuable wall space. For instance, it might be worth considering switching from a horizontal radiator, to a vertical model that can be installed in a corner or alcove, a place that would have previously been considered unusable.


· If you are opting for full length curtains, then the radiators should not be placed under the windows as much of the heat will be shut behind the curtains when they are closed.


· In a lounge, it is preferable not to put a radiator behind furniture such as a sofa, which may absorb the radiant heat. However, if your options are limited and behind furniture is the best position available, then it is better to look at radiators that are designed to ‘convect’ i.e. emit heat from the top, rather than models that ‘radiate’ i.e. emit heat from the front.


· In a kitchen, units often take up most available wall space, so the best solution may be a tall slim radiator, to fit behind the door or fill a space that you previously considered to not be wide enough for a radiator.


· In a bathroom, where a radiator is often used to dry towels, consider where the radiator will be in relation to the bath or basin.


· Why not consider positioning radiators to highlight a particular feature of the room? For example, you could place two identical radiators symmetrically, one each side of an entrance, archway or window. Or you could consider aligning the top of a vertical radiator with the top of a door, a window or a painting; the radiator will seek to draw the eye upwards towards the feature.


In conclusion, the radiator world is your oyster! No longer do you need to go for the boring bog-standard radiators we are used to, that often take up much needed wall space. Instead, look at your room afresh and speak to a radiator specialist for some advice on which products might best suit your space.


For more information on where to position your radiators, then speak to an expert such as Feature Radiators. Browse their website http://www.featureradiators.co.uk, call their specialist team on 01274 567789 or visit them at their showroom in The Old Post Office, 134-140 Main Street, Bingley, West Yorkshire. BD16 2HL.


Helena Gerwitz, EzineArticles Basic PLUS Author

Tuesday, 9 August 2011

What differentiates towel rails and radiators?


A customer asked me the other day, “What’s the difference between these towel rails as one is much more expensive than the other?” So I answered the question, justifying the price difference and realised that this is a common enquiry and something worth addressing properly.

Heated towel rails or radiators for bathrooms are now considered the norm in the UK. Almost all new properties now include a ladder style radiator and the market has rapidly become flooded with options, with huge variation in quality and, consequently, price.

However, opting for the “cheapest” option for heating is rarely a worthwhile investment in the long term and customers usually find that they get what they pay for.

So how do towel radiators vary? What differences should you be looking out for?
Below we have detailed the various points to consider when purchasing towel radiators, helping you avoid the old saying: “buy cheap, buy twice”.

General

· Guarantee period – A relatively short guarantee period may indicate poor quality welding or chroming. You should be looking for a radiator with a minimum guarantee period of 5 years for central heating models.
· Independent testing - Are the radiators tested to EN442, the official European Standard? This certificate guarantees that a radiator meets the minimum standards on various aspects including heat output, material thickness, pressure testing, paint quality, product labelling and safety.
· Heat output - Has an independent laboratory tested the heat output of the radiator? A BSRIA (Building Services Research and Information Association) certificate or similar will confirm that the heat output stated has been confirmed by an independent expert.
· Awards and accreditations – Independent recognition helps to ensure that the radiator is of a good quality and practical design.

Design

· Sizes available – Mass production can help keep costs down on towel radiators, however this often means there is a limited range of sizes available. For instance, you may not have the option of 300mm wide towel rails that maybe perfect for use in your downstairs cloakroom or loo.
· Position of brackets – Rails may include brackets that don’t maximise the space for holding towels as much as they could. Consider going for towel radiators with the brackets located at the edges as this leaves the full width of the radiator free on which to hang towels.
· Position of bars - Closely spaced bars maximise the heat output of a towel rail but are not a feature on cheap rails as they are more difficult to manufacture, especially in chromed versions. For this reason, a high quality chrome rail may often offer a better heat output than a cheaper chrome towel rail in an equivalent size.

Material

· Grades of chrome – Chrome towel rails are still a popular choice, and the quality of chrome varies hugely between models. A luxurious, thick application of chrome adds to the look and the durability of a product. It is recommended that radiators must have at least level “SC2” chrome to ensure that they are suitable for use in spaces with condensation such as bathrooms.
· Consider stainless steel - Recent trends have led to an increase in stainless steel radiator options. This inert metal offers various benefits as due to it’s non-corrosive properties; for instance, it has a long life expectancy meaning guarantees are often 20 or 25 years and it does not have to be used in conjunction with corrosion inhibitor. Stainless steel towel rails also offer better heat outputs than similar models in chrome, as it is bare metal finish as opposed to a coated metal finish. Polished stainless steel offers a finish that is virtually identical to chrome, and stainless steel is also available in a brushed finish giving an alternative matt effect.

Service

Always bear in mind the service provided when you purchase heating for your bathroom. Follow the guide below to ensure you get the best service possible and minimise the chance of encountering problems.

· Choose a reputable supplier. Look for reviews or feedback online, or ask friends and family whom they used when buying a towel radiator.
· Look for awards and accreditations. Independent recognition of the supplier will help back-up their reputation, and will indicate that they have a brand they care about and wish to protect.
· Use a radiator specialist. Even bathroom retailers may have limited knowledge on heating. By using a true specialist, you can get any technical and installation questions answered quickly and accurately.
· Ask how long they have been selling radiators for. Although the towel radiator industry is relatively young, a reputable supplier should have a number of years of successful trading behind them.
· Avoid online only sellers and “Add to basket” shopping. If a radiator or towel rail is chosen without expert advice, it can often lead to the wrong products being ordered, causing problems for all parties involved.
· Find out if they have a showroom. High quality premises can indicate a long-term outlook for the business. If you can’t visit their premises “in the flesh”, then why not look at their showroom online?
· Ask about after-sales service. For instance, does the supplier have technical specialists and a helpline? Some retailers have been known to fob off customers with the phone number of the warehouse, when they report a faulty product.

It’s clear from the above that choosing a heated towel rail or radiator for your bathroom may not be the most straightforward decision, but by following the guidance detailed above, your towel radiator won’t be a false economy.

For more information on buying good quality, durable heated towel rails and radiators with a high end finish, then speak to a specialist such as Feature Radiators. Their expert team will help you to choose the best radiator for your situation, so contact them on 01274 567789, visit them at their showroom in Bingley, West Yorkshire or see http://www.featureradiators.co.uk

Helena Gerwitz, EzineArticles Basic PLUS Author

Wednesday, 27 July 2011

Interiors Shopping around Bingley, West Yorkshire



Are you looking to renovate a property or looking for an iconic piece of design for your home? Are you reluctant to visit the many chain stores that we are now so familiar with due to their generic products and lack of personal service? Then why not look to a local independent merchant for products to upgrade your home.



You don’t need to be in a big metropolis to find help on your quest for stylish interiors. Even in small UK towns, there is a wealth of high quality products and services available from local businesses. Often retailers may be in more random locations but as real specialists, selling niche products, their shop may be a destination in it’s own right.



We decided to do some research into what interior design businesses are situated in our local area and we chose Bingley, West Yorkshire as our test area. We wanted to see what independent merchants are situated in a small British town, such as Bingley, and what they can offer the style conscious homeowner.



Bingley is a small market town with a population of just under 20,000 and is situated in the Aire Valley, West Yorkshire, close to both Leeds and Bradford and on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales.

Bingley is situated in the heart of the UK’s textile industry and its Victorian mills still illustrate its history of producing woollen goods. This expertise is reflected in the wealth of carpet suppliers in the area.



For instance, Carpet Time, based in Bingley, is one of Bradford’s best-known carpet retailers. Started in 1947, this family business has adapted over the year’s to suit ever-changing consumer demands adapting their flooring range to include the latest in high quality laminates and vinyls.



Another legacy from the industrial revolution is Salts Mill, which is now a real destination in West Yorkshire when it comes to interiors. The Home store on the mill’s main floor offers stunningly presented designer homewares and the ultimate in classic furniture; Mies van der Rohe chairs sit alongside Alessi kettles and Phillipe Starck lemon juicers. The Mill, Saltaire also sells affordable art for the home with a wide range of posters and prints available from the bookshop.



As the UK’s leading radiator retailer, Feature Radiators, based in The Old Post Office on Bingley's Main Street, is the one-stop port of call for anyone wanting stylish, high performance heating at competitive prices. This award winning company offers a selection of the best contemporary, designer, traditional cast iron and electric radiators and heated towel rails on the market in terms of quality, design and value for money. With over 250 styles on display in their showroom, expert advice, unrivalled customer service and nationwide delivery, we are widely recognized as the UK's leading radiator specialist.



For textiles, The Design Mill at Castlefields Industrial Estate offers supply and design services for curtains and blinds from a range of fabulous fabrics at discounted prices. With Bradford and Keighley close by, Bingley also is ideally located for sourcing Asian fabrics due to Airedale’s connections to the East. Asian textiles are readily available from a huge array of merchants around the city, most notably Bombay Stores, Shearbridge Road, Bradford, which is the UK’s largest Asian department store.



It’s clear to see that big cities and chain stores are not the only option when it comes to sourcing the right interiors products. Local independent merchants operating around the country can offer a personalised service and as specialists in a particular field, their knowledge of products and the market makes choosing the features for your home not only easy and uncomplicated but also enjoyable.



For more information on shopping in Bingley, then contact Bingley’s Chamber of Trade and Commerce.



For more information on Feature Radiators specifically, then visit their showroom at The Old Post Office, 134-140 Main Street, Bingley, BD16 2HL, call their expert team on 01274 567789 or browse their website www.featureradiators.co.uk

Helena Gerwitz, EzineArticles Basic PLUS Author

Thursday, 14 July 2011

Glossary of radiator terms

Are you considering at ordering a radiator and getting a bit overwhelmed with all the jargon? Then look no further than this glossary of radiator terms and definitions. This article acts as a dictionary/handbook for anyone having trouble understanding or defining any words or phrases related to radiators and central heating systems. For instance;

What is a lockshield valve?
What are “BTUs”?
Do I have an open or closed heating system?
What does balancing mean?
Define a closed heating system?

If you can’t find the information you need below or need help with choosing a radiator, then contact a specialist such as Feature Radiators. Visit their website http://www.featureradiators.co.uk, call their expert team on 01274 567789 or see over 250 radiators on display and meet the team at Feature Radiators’ showroom, The Old Post Office, 134-140 Main Street, Bingley, West Yorkshire. BD16 2HL (near Leeds, Bradford and North Yorkshire).

Air vent - A small valve, which enables air that has accumulated at the top of a radiator to be let out or ‘bled’ from the radiator using a special air vent key. Also known as a bleed valve or bleed vent.
Angled valves - Valves that have a 90° turn on them for use on radiators with side valve connections, where pipe work is coming up from the floor or out of the wall. Also used on radiators with underside valve connections, but only where the pipe work comes out of the wall. See also "Straight valves".
Balancing - Adjusting the flow of water throughout a piped central heating system in order to achieve a similar drop in temperatures across all radiators. It is important to ensure that heat is distributed evenly to all radiators so that they all run at equal temperatures and all take an equal amount of time to reach their operating temperature. A plumber should ‘balance’ the system after installing radiators. Lack of balancing within a system is often the cause of cold spots on radiators, radiators failing to heat up properly or noisy radiators.
BBOE – Bottom Bottom Opposite Ends - Radiator valves are installed at the bottom of the radiator, on either side.
Bleeding a radiator - Getting rid of any air that has accumulated at the top of radiator, using an air vent or bleed valve. Trapped air in a radiator will result in a radiator failing to heat up properly.
Bleed valve - see "Air vent"
Bleed vent - see "Air vent"
Boiler - a device that heats water using gas, oil or electricity. This is the most common way to provide hot water central heating for domestic properties.
Bracket - a part used to secure/fix radiators to the wall
British Thermal Unit - (BTU or Btu) is a traditional unit of energy equal to about 1,055 joules. It is approximately the amount of energy needed to heat 1 pound (0.454 kg) of water (therefore around 0.1198 gallons) from 39 to 40° F (3.8 to 4.4° C). This unit of measurement is now being replaced with the alternative unit of measuring heat output, Watts.
BS 3528 - The old British standard for radiators. BS EN 442 has now superseded this.
BS 5449: 1990 - The British Standard for internal room temperatures, identifying acceptable comfort levels.
BS 7593: 2006 - The British Standard for the treatment of water in domestic hot water central heating systems, including the use of corrosion inhibitors and cleaners.
BS EN 12828 & 12831: 2003 - British Standards for designing heating systems.
BS EN 442 - The official European Standard for radiators. It covers various standards that radiators need to meet including heat output, minimum material thickness, pressure tests, paint quality, product labelling, safety, etc.
BTU – See "British Thermal Unit"
Bush – see "Reducer"
Central Heating – A system that provides warmth to the whole interior of a building (or portion of a building) from one point to multiple rooms.
Closed System - A piped central heating system that is "closed" or "sealed" means that the water contained within the system is taken from the water mains upon installation. Once filled and pressurised the system is sealed off and then the water within the system is circulated repeatedly around the system and is not (unless actioned via the filling loop) replaced by new water entering the system.
Combi boiler - a device that provides both central heating and hot water. A combi boiler is a high-efficiency water heater and a central heating boiler, combined (hence the name) within one compact unit. Therefore, no separate hot water cylinder is required, offering space saving within a property. "Combis" are a very popular choice for domestic properties.
Combination boiler - see "Combi boiler"
Convector - a device that is designed to "convect" heat, using the physics of warm air rising and cold air falling to create a natural cycle of air circulating around a room. Radiators convect heat as well as radiating heat.
Corrosion inhibitor - a chemical that installers add to the water in standard piped central heating systems to prevent internal corrosion of non-inert metals as per BS 7593: 2006. Examples of corrosion inhibitors include Fernox MB-1 and Sentinel X100.
Direct System - Cold water is taken from the mains and goes directly to points of delivery (taps) around a property where cold water is required.
Dt - Also written as Dt or Delta t. "BTUs" or "Watts" are a measure of how good a radiator is at heating a room at standard temperature; the Dt value defines what that standard temperature is. Naturally the hotter a radiator is, the more heat it gives out. Since water cools on its passage through a radiator, the temperature of the water entering it is higher than the temperature of the water leaving it. The mean value of the inlet (flow) and outlet (return) temperatures is taken and the approximate room temperature is subtracted from this figure, universally quoted as 20°C. The difference, known as Dt, is the operating temperature that is given in the radiator’s specifications.
Dt of 50°C - Delta t 50: The European standard for the operating temperature of central heating systems, which determines the heat outputs achievable from radiators.
Dt of 60°C - Delta t 60: The British standard for the operating temperature of central heating systems, which determines the heat outputs achievable from radiators.
Duel Fuel - A radiator that is connected to the central heating system, but also has an electric element for use in the warmer months when the central heating isn't turned on. A popular choice for bathroom radiators.
Economy 7 - An electricity tariff, where you pay a different price for your electricity at different times of day, so the electricity you use at night costs less than the electricity you use during the day - a bit like peak and off-peak phone calls. It's called "Economy 7" because you get cheaper electricity for 7 hours each night. Some appliances, like storage heaters, are designed to take advantage of the cheaper electricity available during the night.
End bush - see "Reducer"
Expansion tank - The tank at the top of on open system, which allows the expanding hot water from the cylinder to spill out and be stored.
Expansion vessel - A small tank used in closed water heating systems and domestic hot water systems to absorb excess water pressure, which can be caused by thermal expansion as water is heated. The vessel itself is a small container divided in two by a rubber diaphragm. One side is connected to the pipe work of the heating system and therefore contains water. The other, the dry side, contains air under pressure. This is not the same as an expansion tank.
Flow - In central heating terms, this refers to the water coming from the boiler and also the point at which water enters radiators. See also "Return".
Heat calculations - These are performed in order to work out the heat output requirement of a room. The calculations are based on numerous factors, but are primarily based on the volume and type of room. The actual size of the radiator required to achieve the required heat output can also be affected by other factors: see "t" and "Mean Water Temperature".
Heat output - the amount of heat that is emitted from a heat source. The heat output can be measured in units of Watts or British Thermal Units.
Indirect System - Cold water is taken from the mains and enters the property. It has one draw off point (generally the kitchen sink) as well as pipework that feeds the cold water tank. The stored water in the tank feeds all other cold water points in the property.
Inert metals - Do not corrode when in contact with oxygenated water. Examples include stainless steel, copper and brass. Non-inert metals include mild steel, cast iron and aluminium and are used on central heating systems in conjunction with corrosion inhibiting chemicals as per BS 7593: 2006.
Joining nipple - a metal collar with opposing threads at each end, which acts like an internal nut and is used for joining radiator sections together.
Lockshield - A valve that is used to restrict the flow of water on the return side of a radiator in order to "balance" the radiator on the system. Valves usually come as a pair and the "lockshield" valve is supplied along with either a "thermostatic" or "manual" control valve. See also "Return" and "Balancing".
Manual radiator valve - Act simply like taps as they directly control the flow of water into a radiator and consequently how hot the radiator gets, regardless of the surrounding room temperature. Manual valves have no labelled settings – you simply turn the valve head until the radiator is giving the amount of heat desired.
Mean water temperature (MWT) - The mean temperature of the water in a central heating system. For example; a system operating at 90-70-20°C will have a mean water temperature of 80°C
Microbore (piping) - pipe that is only 10mm and 8mm in diameter that is narrower than the standard 15mm copper pipe or traditional 22mm pipe.
Nipple - See "Joining nipple"
Open System - an un-pressurized central heating system. Water is drawn into the system from the mains when required via the expansion tank. As water heats up and "expands" in the system, the excess water is released as necessary back into the expansion tank, which is usually, but not always found high up within a property. Also known as an open-vented system.
Pipe centre measurement - the measurement from the centre of one pipe to the centre of another pipe and the measurement from the wall to the centre of the pipe. This measurement is useful for the installation of pipework for a radiator; especially where pipework is to be installed before the radiator is present.
Pressurized system - see "Closed System"
Radiator - a device that is designed to "radiate" heat, to force heat outwards. In reality, most radiators also convect heat to some degree, for example most standard corrugate steel panel radiators radiate 85% of their heat and convect 15% of their heat.
Radiator valve - see "Valve"
Reducer - a part that is designed to reduce the size of a connection, often used on radiators. Also known as an "end bush" or "bush".
Return - This refers to either the water going back to the boiler or the point on a radiator where the water exits. See also "Flow".
Sealed system - see "Closed System"
Secondary Hot Water System - a piped central heating system where the water that runs through the system is the same water that comes out of your taps. As a consequence, the water needs to be clean and free from chemicals, so radiators and parts on this system need to be made of inert metals such as copper, brass or stainless steel. Parts made of mild steel, aluminium and cast iron, which need to be used in conjunction with corrosion inhibitor, are not suitable.
Straight valves - Valves that are straight for use on radiators with underside connections where the pipes are coming out of the floor.
Tap - A valve controlling release of liquids or gas. The word 'tap' is sometimes used as an alternative to 'valve'.
Tapping centre measurement - The distance between the valve connection points on a radiator.
TBOE – Top Bottom Opposite Ends - Radiator valves are installed at the top on one side of the radiator, and the bottom of the other side of the radiator.
TBSE - Top Bottom Same Ends - Radiator valves are installed at the top and bottom on the same end of the radiator.
Thermostatic Radiator Valve (TRVs) - Include an in-built temperature sensor. A thermostatic valve will maintain a space at the temperature selected, by automatically adjusting the heat output from the radiator. As a thermostatic valve is controlled automatically, it turns itself up and down, ensuring the radiators perform as efficiently as possible, reducing energy waste. For this reason, TRVs are the environmentally friendly valve choice as they prevent energy wastage.
Towel radiator - A radiator that is designed specifically to warm towels as well as a room, often used in bathrooms or kitchens.
Towel rail - Historically this phrase just meant a rail for hanging towels, but over recent years this phrase has come to mean a radiator that has been designed to keep towels warm and dry. It is now used in both instances. Other terms used included heated towel rail and towel radiator.
TRV – See "Thermostatic Radiator Valve"
Un-pressurized system - see "Open System"
Valve - A device that regulates, directs or controls the flow of a fluid by opening, closing, or partially obstructing various passageways. In radiators and central heating systems, valves are used to control water flowing around a system and particularly in and out of radiators.
Wall tie - a device used to attach a radiator or similar to a wall. Sometimes called a wall stay.
Watts - A derived unit of power in the International System of Units (SI), named after the Scottish engineer James Watt (1736–1819). The unit, defined as one joule per second, measures the rate of energy conversion. In heating, watts are used to measure the heat output given by a heat source such as a radiator.
75-65-20°C operating temperature - Water on a hot water piped system will leave the boiler at 75°C and return to the boiler at 65°C losing a nominal 20°C across the whole system. See also Dt 50°C
90-70-20°C operating temperature - Water on a hot water piped system will leave the boiler at 90°C and return to the boiler at 70°C losing a nominal 20°C across the whole system. See also Dt 60°C

If you can’t find the information you need above or need help with choosing a radiator, then contact a specialist such as Feature Radiators. Visit their website, call their expert team on 01274 567789 or see over 250 radiators on display and meet the team at Feature Radiators’ showroom, The Old Post Office, 134-140 Main Street, Bingley, West Yorkshire. BD16 2HL (near Leeds, Bradford and North Yorkshire).

Helena Gerwitz, EzineArticles Basic PLUS Author

Monday, 20 June 2011

Heating A Conservatory – What Options Do I Have?


Even with rising global temperatures, a conservatory in the UK will need heating if it is to be used all year round.

There are several heating options for conservatories, and the best choice will depend on various factors particular to your project.

Conservatories can have high heating requirements, due to large expanses of glass, outside walls and high ceilings. Greater heat loss will occur through glass (even specialist glass such as Pilkington glass, or gas filled glass) than through a standard interior or exterior wall. Similarly, conservatories are subject to more extreme heat variations than other rooms. When the sun disappears and the outside temperature drops, good efficient heating enables continual use of a conservatory.

There are several options available for heating conservatories:
· Electric underfloor heating;
· Piped underfloor heating run off a boiler;
· Additional radiator on an extended piped hot water central heating system;
· Independent electric radiator;
· Additional radiator on an electric central heating systems; and
· Trench radiators.

The suitability will depend on how a household uses a space so it is important to consider both the pros and cons when deciding on the right heating choice for your conservatory.

And, whichever option you go for, it is essential that the particular heat output required is calculated, to ensure that the temperature of the conservatory is kept at a comfortable level.

Underfloor heating This option is available in two formats: electric (dry) and central heating (piped hot water). In general, underfloor heating provides a warm floor and will equally act to radiate heat upwards into the conservatory to provide even warmth in the room, with no space lost to radiators. However there are a number of negatives to bear in mind when considering underfloor heating for your conservatory. · Conservatories tend to have high ceilings and big expanses of glass relative to their floor area; so underfloor heating often isn’t sufficient to heat some conservatories during the colder months. Additional heating such as radiators may be required. · Underfloor heating takes a long time to warm up, so planned rather than spontaneous use of the conservatories in the colder months is needed.· This slow response time can also result in the conservatory becoming too hot and taking many hours to cool down. · Certain floor coverings are best avoided for use with underfloor heating – such as carpet, which will insulate the heat and stop it rising, or solid wood, which is prone to split or warp when used with underfloor heating. Tiles or engineered wood flooring (including laminate) are a good choice instead. · Piped underfloor heating systems are often only an option at the design stage of the build and due to the disruption and labour involved, installation costs can be prohibitively expensive. Also, installation needs to be carefully co-ordinated with the construction of the conservatory itself. · Electric underfloor minimises installation costs as it is easier and more convenient to install and can be fitted retrospectively, however with the slow response time and the cost of electricity still being more than gas, running costs could be relatively high. So for many homeowners, underfloor is not a suitable option leading them to look for alternatives.

Electric radiators

A popular and straightforward option to heating a conservatory is adding an electric radiator. As you don’t need to extend any pipework, it eliminates the disruption and cost of installing or extending a fully piped, wet system. Electric radiators are a perfect solution:
· If there isn’t already a central heating system in the rest of the house;
· If you don’t want to extend the existing central heating system from elsewhere in the house to the conservatory; or
· If you need additional heat in the conservatory.
The market in electric radiators has boomed over the last few years and as a result the choice of electric radiators has increased significantly. Many shapes, sizes and finishes are now available ranging from minimalist flat panels in white, ultra modern spirals in chrome and traditional cast iron designs.

Due to the large amount of glass, conservatories often lack wall space; so electric radiator options now include low level and tall, skinny wall-mounted designs as well as floor-mounted options.

Electric radiators offer efficient performance and the nature of their design means they can bring a room up to temperature relatively quickly, in comparison to other options such as underfloor heating.

Extending your piped central heating system and adding a radiator
Adding another radiator to your central heating system is a good option provided you already have a central heating system that can be extended.
Radiators, whether they are central heating or electric, can achieve the necessary heat output required a conservatory in full due to their increasingly high performance.
Following the boom in the interior decoration industry over the last 20 years, radiators are now available in a vast array of designs and finishes, in styles to suit any interior whether it is contemporary or traditional.
There is now a wide range of radiators that are popular for heating conservatories, where the heat output required is high, yet wall space is limited. A wealth of vertical models are now available that can utilise otherwise unused space, short radiators are now often in heights to go underneath windowsills in conservatories and bench radiators offer the option of combining your radiator with a piece of furniture.
Modern radiator valves have also followed suit with a wide variety of models available to match any radiator, alongside offering the option of thermostats that ensure a room never gets too hot and heat isn’t wasted.

Trench Heating

A less recognised option, but effective none the less, trench heating offers a toasty warm room with the benefits of radiators, without the loss of wall or floor space. A trench provides a site for a radiator below floor level with a stylish grille being placed over the top at floor level allowing heat to convect up without the slow response times of underfloor heating.

Summary

As there are many factors affecting heat loss in conservatories, your conservatory supplier or heating engineer is best informed to work out how much heat is needed to keep your conservatory warm. Failing that, a real underfloor heating or radiator expert can work out the approximate heat outputs required, based on the information provided by you – e.g. dimensions, materials, etc.

For more information on heating conservatories then speak to a specialist such as Feature Radiators. You can visit their website http://www.featureradiators.co.uk call their expert team on 01274 515734 or visit them at the showroom in West Yorkshire.

Helena Gerwitz, EzineArticles Basic PLUS Author